Mesa Verde

Yesterday (Tuesday) was a travel day. We started out the morning with blue skies and sun but by the time we had eaten, packed up and dumped the tanks it had clouded over and we could see dark skies in the direction we were heading.

We were travelling back towards Telluride and south on Hwy 145. While we did have a mountain pass to go through, the road was much better for travelling than the Million Dollar Highway! We did experience not only some heavy rain (probably the most we’ve had this trip), but also less than a minute of hail. At one point it looked like they had actually had a bit of snow that we could see along the edge of the road.

Finally we got out of the rain and started looking for our campsite for the night. We had reserved at a private campground with only 5 sites. It was on a private farm with no hookups but right along the river. They had no other campers so we have the place to ourselves. The farm house and barn are across the highway. We pulled into the lane towards the campground and went to look things over. Then a woman came from the farm driving her four-wheeler. She introduced herself as Jeanie. She said her husband is 95 and she is 88. This is the farm he was raised on and lived on all his life. She sure gets around for her age!

Along the River RV Campground Site 2

This morning our trip takes us to another national park. Mesa Verde was established on 1906 as the only national park created to preserve Ancestral Pueblo culture and prehistoric architecture. These people made their home for over 750 yrs from AD. 550 to AD. 1300.

Throughout the park there are nearly 5000 known archeological sites. There are 3 different periods of inhabitants. The first started farming and basket weaving living in pit structures. The middle had deeper structures or kivas like we saw at Chimney Rock. The final period they began to inhabit the sandstone alcoves in cliff dwellings. Nearly 600 cliff dwellings have been recorded.

Mesa Verde has been home to many fires over the last years. From Park Point Fire Tower, at an elevation of 8572’, park staff monitored for forest fires. From here, they had a 360 degree view of the park and surrounding area including the Four Corners where Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and Utah states meet.

Our next stop was at the museum where there were multiple exhibits of artifacts that have been found over the years in the park. Different periods of clay pots, baskets, tools, and food including beans and corn are shown along with lots of information about them.

Measuring 22 qts, this pottery vessel of corn was found hidden in a cave, preserved from rodents

The yucca plant provided much of the material for ropes and cords.

At several spots along the Mesa Top Loop were some examples of the pit houses. This was from the time period around AD. 600 and are the oldest structures here.

Two pit houses – the second built upon the to of the antechamber of the first

The next time period saw kivas, closer to 950 AD. They had more stone walls with a lattice like wooden roof.

Excavated kiva

The final era was the cliff dwellers around AD. 1200.We were able to see quite a few of these dwellings. There are some Ranger-led hikes into them but they are booked in advance and may involve ladders or small spaces – not for Joyce!

Spruce Tree House
Cliff House largest cliff dwelling in N. America – 150 rooms and 21 kivas.
Oak Tree House

Our final stop of the day was at the Sun Temple. Built above ground in about AD. 1250, with 4’ thick walls, it was likely a communal gathering place. Archeologists excavated 24 rooms of various sizes as well as 3 circular structures inside and one circular structure outside. There were no roof beams or household goods found in it.

Outside walls of the Sun Temple
Looking into some rooms through an opening in the wall.

We saw a lot at Mesa Verde without having to do a lot of hiking. We didn’t get to one small loop of the Mesa Top Loop and the complete Wetherill Mesa was closed due to construction. However we had a perfect day for weather and we learned a lot about the Ancestral Puebloans.

Mountain View and Telluride -Time to ride the gondolas!

Sunday had some scattered showers in the area so we delayed leaving for any sightseeing. There are gondolas that join the villages of Mountain Village and Telluride but you can drive to either town. After checking out parking options for both, we decided to head to Telluride. As we approached the town we started to see lines of cars and then the roadside sign that said Telluride Blues and Brews Festival info. Every possible parking place in town (and even for 1/2 mile in and out of town) was totally filled. So onto plan B!

Aerial view of the Blues and Brews Festival

We ordered our wood-fired pizza for pick up from Brown Dog Pizza and waited until it was ready and Paul dropped me off to get it. We ate while we drove over to Mountain Village where we found parking right at the gondola lot.

There are actually 2 different gondolas. The first one takes you across Mountain Village.

Lots of high end accommodations in this village.

The next gondola is two parts. The first part takes you to an elevation of 10,500’ and the beginning of lots of ski runs. Beautiful views of Telluride from here. We got out here and took a short walk up the hill for the views.

From the top of the mountain looking down at Telluride.
Looking over towards Mountain Village

We took the next segment of the gondola down to the village of Telluride for the view, but opted to get back on and head back to Mountain View because we wanted to get back to Ouray for a dip at the hot springs.

Heading down to Telluride
Crazy mesh of ski runs and chair lifts, gondolas….
In the summer people take mountain bikes and bike down the trails. Here is one side of hooks seen from our gondola car.

Heading back to our campground and on to Ouray we were struck by some of the red rock. From an elevation over 10,500’ down to 7500’ the roads certainly didn’t have the steep and windy sections we experienced on the Million Dollar Hwy!


Our stop tonight will be back to the hot springs. They were rebuilt in 2018 and look very different from our last time here. The hot pool sits about 120 degrees F. The lap pool is quite a lot cooler! The overlook pool for adults only is up at 106 F. Hopefully we won’t get too much rain while we’re there but our forecast for tomorrow is much more rain and then on Tuesday we leave for our next stop.

Ouray Hot Springs